Raen is Carlo and Dante Mondavi’s contribution to California wine’s long-standing love affair with the sea. Their focus on Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is intentionally narrow, allowing for a highly reverent and obsessive approach (which suits them well). They farm two vineyard sites — Sea Field and Bodega — and make just three Pinot Noir bottlings. Royal St. Robert is a reserve cuvée that combines the best of both sites. It’s also a tribute to their grandfather, Robert Mondavi, who according to Carlo, “was neither royal nor a saint,” but who taught them the importance of passion and total commitment. In terms of farming, they are new-wave naturalists, blending permaculture, biodynamics, and regenerative practices — always keeping a close eye on the moon, which informs the timing of many tasks, such as pruning, racking, and bottling. Look for a symbol on the cork that marks the lunar phase during harvest. They work minimally in the cellar with whole-cluster fermentation, and mostly neutral French oak.